Back into Chile.

Hurrah! The return bus did get though the Andes although we appreciated more why snow and ice was a threat, even in the late Spring, over the remote passes between the countries.For the first 30 minutes of the 10 hour trip we were in heavy mist and rain and the coach windows steamed up so nil visibility. "No... " we thought but then we drove above it all into blue sky. A “good" experience with customs on the  snowy border of only an hour, when 2/3 hours is common.

Good countryside; we spent most of this trip traveling through green valleys bordered by either snow capped or scrubby hills, occasional villages or small towns, little traffic, meadows, vines and fruit trees everywhere.

That all changed in Valparaiso, an amazing combination of faded 19th century architecture, street art, wealth and poverty. Two walking  tours in one day and then a day's cookery and market visit ( surprisingly little variety of fish for a port) followed by a day with a guide ( Michael the German Pirate) visiting  Casablanca Valley vineyards, then Pablo Neruda's house in Isla de Negra and the former whaling village of Quintay. The town though was the real attraction.

The wealth inequality was especially obvious here,if only because the rich and poor are in such close proximity and all are in historic buildings just some much more crumbling then others.

favourite accommodation of the trip ?

The food market. Airy and relaxed.

legs and bikes at the Museum

Crowded hillside barrios

Evening fog rolling into the city.

The longest swimming pool in the world; alongside a hideous resort on the coast, South of the city.

Isla Negra, another of Pablo Neruda's homes

After some excellent meals and of course wine we said adios to Robert and Liz who were also staying here after their Atcama Desert adventures.