Chiloe

On and even further south to one of the remoter parts of Chile, an island, albeit a large one, which has retained much of the character and architecture of its past. Still no bridge across yet and so a very informal ferry and across rolling countryside to our hotel outside Castro, the largest town. One of the first areas of Chile colonised by the Spanish, Chiloe has retained and restored many of its distinctive wooden framed churches. They are very attractive and you wonder why there are as so few in Europe.

We spent hours wondering around Castro, in part for the palafitos, the small colourful homes resting on stilts along side the beaches and lagoons. Some are just starting to be gentrified but for now most, like the town itself, are the real deal, representing a way of life unchanged for decades. A newly opened shopping mall felt from another era.

St Francisco de Castro

Rilan

We lucked into a local Sunday craft market at Dalcahue, on the coast with the local country music bands playing and dancing with great gusto. Good seafood empanadas as well in the associated food market. This was all laid on for the locals, or at least, local visitors as well, not just for the tourists.

We also visited Chonchi, another port, again, local musicians and stalls.

All generations enjoy the handkerchief dances

Yes, she is playing the jaw bone of a sheep...

Finally, after having to drive across a beach and stream  to get to it, we went out on a rib in some exciting seas west of Ancud in glorious sunshine to view the colonies of Humboldt and Magellan penguins, or rather their offspring, their parents out fishing for their little darlings.This area of the North coast is absolutely stunning with virtually no development.

We ended our stay in the area back on the mainland with an overnighter in Puerto Montt, a commercial hub and port and after a struggle to find the car hire office we were glad to return our hire vehicle, in one piece, nothwithstanding the mileage and rough tracks we had put it through.

Magellanic penguins