To the Chilean Lake District


A long day in the car, rather like driving from Berko to the Lake District but with remoteness most of the trip. Almost caught out by the lack of petrol stations as well!

Salto Del Laja
We had an overnight stay in Temuco, a market city with supposedly the best Machupe handicrafts market in Chile, except it had burned down last year but also with one of the largest food markets in the South which was very entertaining. No hard sell, just relaxed shopping for our next 10 days self catering. Was a bit of a test for Nic's Spanish. Basically, apart from main city hotels there is either no or very limited English spoken but in our experience the Chilean’s are relaxed, courteous and friendly so getting about is generally OK.




Next day off the Lake District proper, to Pucon, a popular tourist base for Chilinos and gringos alike.

There’s an awful lot of unpopulated countryside here and any self respecting Chilean has a cabana i.e. a country shack/ palace depending on their means ( mainly shacks ). Ours was an Air B & B overlooking Lake Villarica.  All we had established in advance was the view and the presence of a BBQ. It was very rustic indeed and as idiosyncratic as it’s owner.
view over the lake from the cabana

our little cabana

After 2 weeks of eating out we were ready for home cooking and we BBQed four nights running. The locals don’t use firelighters but kindling; and hair dryers ( ! ) works like a treat. No fresh fish here so in strict carnivore mode.


Villarica volcano


Drove up to the Playa Negra by the Caburua volcano on the national Election Day where an empanada seller proudly told us she had been up at dawn to bus to town, at least an hour on rutted gravel tracks, to vote and return to her stall. Strange to see the local version of pedallos lined up on the beach awaiting their busy season in January.


The highlight was our long walk into the Huereque National Park.Some initial confusion as to how they give the “one way “ time on a return no option hike, so a rather longer walk  then anticipated and 3,600 feet of ascent but stunning scenery and views over the Villarica volcano,which we walked around the next day. Impressive waterfalls too because of the snowmelt.

No, the ski lift was not running 



Another chimango!



Jewel Lizard




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